Sam's 80th Birthday
Glacer National Park, August 2022
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Aug 10, 2022. To celebrate my 80th birthday (September 7, 2022), and to complete the last 100 miles of the Continental Divide Trail, my kids and I decided to hike together for at least part of the way. I left the Bay Area by train to East Glacier on August 8, and began hiking on the 10th.
Aug 13, 2022. For the first left of my trek, I needed to get to Two Medicine from East Glacier, a distance of "only" 10.5 miles. An eventful beginning as I began my conquest of the last hundred miles of the CDT. I went out pretty well, even saw bears on the very first mile, but as I continued, and the grade increased, I began to really feel it. When I came to a point where my maps said the next 3 miles were uphill, I decided that’s it, I’m turning back. The trail was very rough (I scratched my legs pretty badly), my pack was too heavy, and my back hurt. Huge red splotches on both arms: and I was wearing a long sleeve shirt. Right big toe feels tender (when I checked later, I discovered a blister beginning to form). But mainly it’s my back. Hard to get up (it’s a multi stage process); hard to walk in a straight line; walking sort of like Quasimodo, all bent out of shape.My age, and the fact that I hadn't been hiking for quite some time, really got to me.
So I hobbled back to East Glacier Park, and checked into the absolutely wonderful Looking Glass Base Camp. Floor space $15, Which includes a very nice hot shower and towel. Next door is a restaurant and a sort of short order place, both of which I of course sample and both of which are fine each and its own way. Ice cream, breakfast burritos, burgers, huckleberry pie, and more . Laundry the next building over. I couldn’t have a better set up to get myself back in walking and backpack carrying order. But right now, I find it very difficult just to stand up. I ended up spending about 10 days (!) at the Looking Glass Base Camp.
The manager of a local motel told me they had to destroy four bears recently because they had become too accustomed to the area and the tourists.
Amazing but true: When I walked in, another hiker recognized me: in 2008, on the PCT!
The very nice Glacier Park lodge was nearby, constructed of giant redwood trees from California, and decorated with drawings by local native Americans.
Took the shuttle to St. Mary’s, and set up my campsite. Flat and hot amongst the alder and willow trees, with no real mountains visible. The kids arrive tomorrow: Rachael from California, and Dana from New York. Dana flies into Kalispell, arriving 12:30 PM. R arrives 3:30 PM. They take a Uber to the West Entrance of Glacier Park, then the Going To The Sun shuttle to Saint Mary’s, where Sam will be camping. They will bring food for all 3 for the next 4-5 days. Sam will have bear spray, stove, and fuel. They should bring plates, utensils, sleeping bags, pads, tent(s), etc.
The above weather chart turns out to have been totally inaccurate. As soon as the kids arrived, it clouded over, and was overcast with occasional rain and even hail for their entire stay.
Aug 23, 2022: The kids arrived in a rental car. They really didn’t have much choice, getting from the airport to Saint Mary’s. But as things turned out, having a car was a great boon. It turns out to have been much, much easier to go from place to place with our own vehicle, instead of relying on the shuttle service. Lots of planning for the next few days.
Aug 24: First day of hiking. I hiked to Grinnell Lake, about 6 miles round-trip, and the kids went further to Grinnell Glacier. They came across some mountain goats right on the trail, and a beautiful bighorn sheep. And they even jumped in the lake at the base of the glacier. We camped at the many glacier campground: there was only one campsite left, and we got it.
Aug 25: We drove to Logan Pass, where we all began hiking the Highline Trail. They made it as far as the overlook to the Grinnell Glacier, while I covered probably about 6 miles. It hailed hard on the way back, and required navigating through the newly formed waterfalls coming down hard on the trail. I would say this was one of the most difficult hikes I have ever attempted.
IMG_0848.MOVAug 26: Short day hikes and And wildlife spotting. Saw several brown bears grazing for berries in an open field. But no grizzlies.
The number of visitors to the park is staggering. Just getting a campsite required Rachael to get up one morning at 6 o’clock when the reservation system opened. By the time she signed on, there were 600 or so visitors trying to do the same thing. She got in at about number 300.
Aug 28: Sam & Rachael fly out at 4:10 PM. Dana flies back to NY the next day. This is a tight schedule for Sam & Rachael. All in aii, it was a wonderful event. Many thanks to my children for making my 80th birthday so special.
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