Stanford

July 25, 1962: Letter from Sam in Athens to family

Dear family,

Here I am on old Constitution Square again, for the next installment. Lots of news, too. I mentioned in my last letter that Jim and I had spent our first night in Athens in a hole in the wall just off Constitution Square. After two more nights in the same place  (the youth hostel was full), the Acropolis, Aegina, a play at Epidaurus (The Bacchae by Euripides - too jazzed up with gadgets for me), Sound and Light in Pnyx (too funny for words), and all the museums.  

We met up with a graduate from Yale law school, Rod Webb, who knows his classics and owns a 1962 VW.   And in no time he had invited us to a grand tour of the Peloponnesus with him. We reluctantly accepted his invitation, and off we went: Eleusis, Thebes, Delphi, Olympia, Megalopolis, Kalamai, Gythion, Monemvasia, Sparta, Tripolis, Argos, Nauplion, Mycenae, Corinth, Megara, Piraeus - the works. Rod had taken the route before, so everything ran smoothly. In many of the sites where excavations were still going on, we had a chance to meet and talk with the archaeologists because Rod also knows that circle pretty well. We made lots of side trips to far out ruins, lots of hikes up far out peaks, and had a meal or two at far out monasteries (free of course).  we did spend our nights in nice hotels, however: the Apollo, the Grand Xerxes, the Athena, etc., and at very reasonable prices. The entire tour took about eight days of going every minute, and thus, at our return to Athens a few days ago, we just pooped around the hotel for a while. The trip was a blast for me: not so much the ruins. (which didn’t excite my aesthetic sense so much), as the names and places they bring to mine: Agamemnon, Odysseus, the Argonauts, Theseus, Herakles, etc. And, on the practical side, it gave me a good start and several good ideas for that senior thesis I have to write for my honors humanities program. I need not mentioned that the Mycenae ruins turned me on more than any other site.

After our day of recuperation in Athens mentioned above, giving Jim and Rod time to recover from the Whistling Screamers they had contracted from tripe soup in Gythion, we went to visit a mutual friend, professor Doyle, of the Stanford classics department, now working in the American School for Classical Studies in Athens. Doyle is a real character, a great help in planning itineraries, and a lush, so we are having great times with him. Doyle doesn’t feel what he drinks (apparently), but Rod has been stoned twice, trying to keep up the pace. Jim and I modestly nurse our ouzo and retsina, and hope no one becomes offended. We have free rein of the libraries of all the foreign archaeological schools here, all the bigwigs (including Dinsmore, the biggest name in archaeology today), and have been invited out to dinner, drinks, etc., more times than we can handle. Tonight we dine with the American Classical School boys, and tomorrow night Doyle shows us the Piraeus he thinks is authentic. Lots of fun.

Two days ago, Jim called on Popayanapolis, who greeted us with so much warmth that we were almost embarrassed. In about two weeks, we are visiting him (on invitation) at St. John, where he will be measuring, taking pictures of, asking questions about, etc., your house. Jim and I also called on Rigos, but don’t plan on following the call up – no time.

Tomorrow morning Likkos shows us around the Supreme Court, and Friday morning Jim and I head off for further adventures: Istanbul. We will drive there, then down the coast of Asia Minor, stopping at all the ionic sites, and finally pick a boat back to Athens. The circle should take about two weeks. Then a short jump to Crete and back, Likko's place, and finally Rome. Therefore, we should be available at American Express, Rome around August 15. Greece snowed us, so we have shifted the ball a little to the east, as you can see. Anyway, both of us have seen Rome before, so we don’t feel too bad about forsaking it a little. I have been in good health since last spring, the trots haven’t caught me yet, and the heat doesn’t bother me too much anymore. So don’t worry already.

Now some bad news. Due to my own stupidity and lack of concentration, I bought an insurance policy which only covers third person damages. I therefore have to pay for the accident repairs out of my own pocket. (Jim is of course not responsible for contributing here).  This still leaves me above water, due to my superior handling of all matters concerning monetary considerations, but it also means I am not floating freely again. Another words, I’ll make it home, but with no jangle in the pockets. Just thought I would warn you. I plan on selling my car for $250 (if I’m lucky - the wreck really shafted the VW) to a friend, but if the deal collapses, it’s my tough break. Oh well, another unforgettable experience.

Please send following info to American Express, Athens: when Stanford classes begin  (not registration), when Len and Bruce head back (if you haven’t sent this info already), and how you want me to get from New York to San Fran (plane, train, bus, etc.). Also, I broke my false teeth in Yugoslavia, and they were badly repaired – I’ll need either a new plate, or wired in teeth. Keep the interesting (to say the least) home front news rolling, and love - Sam