1999-2004: The South Pacific 

May 16, 2000 

Dear Pancho:

As I peruse the last thirty or so emails we have received, I suddenly realized that you come out the winner, with a total of three. I don't know what is going on (presumably, Caren's trip to Thailand generated some responses from you), but the least I can do is send a totally unrelated email just for the hell of it.

Pancho, how the hell are you? We haven't seen each other in a long time, and a lot of water has gathered no moss under the bridge (saving nine) since we last saw each other, so I thought I would just sit my butt down here at the nav station of Rhapsodie and let the fingers do the talking.

Pancho, life is good. I have a fine wife who just spent a month in New Zealand getting her back into ultra fine shape, and then another month in northern Thailand with an amazing crazy guy named Alan, full of intelligence and bullshit, seeing and doing things that make even me jealous (example: the sole non-Meo attending a ceremony on the Laotian border, only held once every seven years, complete with the hunting down of a wild bintang (my vocab is probably fucked here, but basically the locals nailed a wild water buffalo, and that ain't an everyday affair), then raw buff burgers for the masses. She also slipped into Burma for a while, did all kinds of wild new drugs, and basically went totally out of the guide books. She's back aboard Rhapsodie now, but she's changed a lot, and can't wait to get back into the fun stuff.  And here I thought getting married and having kids would settle me down? Listen, all of this stuff is between you and me, right? Caren's got her own questions with you, but please don't mingle them with what I just wrote, OK?   --- Want some more? Her spiritual guide in Thailand, an amazing American named Alan with a black belt times 10, former green beret, doctor, physiotherapist, expert on Fijian jungle herbs, you name it, at one point in their trip returned to their hotel in Nan all bloodied up, his motorcycle in shambles. Explanation? He had been battling her spirit warrior, a six foot five inch Viking, who nailed him. (Other, less spiritual types, might suggest, based on the fact that he was totally drunk at the time of the incident, that he had an ordinary motorcycle accident -- these spiritual types are not, obviously, highly evolved.) Hey, Caren came back with like dozens of great stories of this nature, plus lots of news on northern Thailand, Burma, Laos, temples, you name it. She put my northern Thailand travels to shame, chum. The good news is that she has got a serious travel bug, and so it looks like we will be doing more of the same for quite some time (or until the money runs out, a real possibility).

Me? I'm taking life very easy. I spend my time reading, home schooling (the biggest brain drain by far), listening to music, doing boat shit, and hanging with the locals. I can't believe how lucky I am to be essentially back in the lifestyle I had when I first met you in Katmandu, how many years ago? That's supposed to be a one-shot opportunity before you settle down and become respectable, but here I am, going at it again, an old hippy traveler, getting away with it. Ain't life amazing?                                         

We leave in a week or two (in my life, a week is the smallest unit of measure) for Kadavu, one of the great islands of Fiji (maybe the world?) where we will spend several weeks diving, snorkeling, scuba-ing, and kava drinking with the locals — and at the Astrolabe Reef, just about the best dive spot on earth, and nobody else within miles. You want to know about Kadavu? Last time we were there, we looked down and clearly saw our anchor in the bottom at about 70 feet — and this was at night! Pancho, it doesnl get much better. That last time we had to hustle out because of a very bad fetch (had to drop our anchor and hustle butt at 5 AM). When we returned, I had to recover the anchor by tying a line to ft at 70 feet, then pull the thing out of the coral. I did this free diving, no scuba gear. Sorry to brag, but this is like a world record for yours truly.

So. I am wandering. Too bad. Just wanted to get an email off to you before everybody returned, and let you know that things are good with me, that I am  living life to the fullest, and I believe I have never been in better shape.

Love to you, buddy. I don't write this kind of letter to anybody else.

Sam

Yacht Rhapsodie 

Vuda Marina

Fiji

June 4, 2000 - Vuda Marina

Dear Pancho:

Sorry for the delay in writing, but we have wound down our pace so much that a week can go by in Fiji like a day in the US. We are definitely on "Fiji time‘".

Hope you enjoyed your trip to Newfoundland, a part of the world I have never seen. We are still stuck in Vuda Marina, with many technical boat problems keeping us from leaving on schedule (we had hoped to be out of here almost three weeks ago). The coup continues to provide us with a lot of amusement, if it weren't for the fact that a couple of people have been killed, andquite a few more injured. (My favorite news bite so far: the Fiji Times reported a few days ago that several men in police uniforms, driving a police van, robbed a local of his cow, slaughtered it on his front porch, and brought it back to George Speight and his cohorts -- the chief of police is "investigating"). Our biggest concern now is whether we will actually be able to fly out of here on July 15 and return August 12, as planned. Right now we are schedule to sail out to Kadavu and on to Savusavu in two days, but the anchor windlass and the generator regulator are both on the spritz, so we may be thinking optimistically. ("Yachting: spending lots of money on boat repairs in exotic places.")

Nonetheless, my enthusiasm for this lifestyle has not waned. We hope to spend the cruising season in Fiji, Vanuatu, and New Caledonia, and spend the  next hurricane season in Australia, probably living on the boat in a nice anchorage, putting the kids in local schools, buying a cell phone and a used car, and doing a bit of land-based touring. We have decided against sailing from Fiji to New Zealand because so many boats get nailed on that passage; instead, we will fly from Australia (New Zealand is not a great country to see by boat, anyway). No predictions yet where we'll be after Australia.

All the best, good friend,

Sam

Yacht Rhapsodie 

Vuda Marina

Fiji

June 13, 2000

Dear John and Mom:

The coup is almost three weeks old now, with no end in sight — we are definitely on "Fiji Time." It is fascinating political theater, with unfortunate economic consequences for this lovely little country - I'm afraid this jerk George Speight has set back Fiji's development by a good ten years. We continue to be very safe, far from the action in Suva, the capital.

Nicki is handling our reservations from San Diego to San Francisco. We hope to arrive in SFO on Friday, July 21, sometime in the early evening. When we get the exact flight number and arrival time, we will let you know. We will be in the Bay Area through Monday, then we are off to Napa and Gold Lake by car, returning to the Bay Area August 4. We fly back to Fiji from San Francisco on August 12.

The big question is: would you be willing to lend us a car for the period July 21 - August 12? If the answer is Yes, then we will further ask: could you pick us up at the airport upon our arrival July 21? If the answer is No, we will pick up a rental car at SFO, and you will not need to meet us. We await your answer.

The next question is: Can you host a family get-together on Saturday evening, July 22? We could celebrate our reunion, honor Gard's memory, and wish Dana a happy ninth birthday. It would be nice to have it at Len and Inger's house, but you pick the venue.

Another question: We will be in the Bay Area August 4 - August 12, with no real afternoon or evening plans (medical and dental appointments aside). Do you have any good ideas for cultural/artistic/interesting/fun outings that might be appropriate for all members of our respective families? We are game for just about anything except kava ceremonies.

The final, and most important question is: How is mom doing with the Japanese cuisine? We are terribly concerned with her welfare after your devastating description of her first culinary encounter.

Lots of love -- just six weeks to go!

Sam

Yacht Rhapsodie 

Fiji

June 16, 2000

Dear John:

We just learned from Nicki that Lee passed away yesterday. In addition, Nicki's brother Marty died last week. Caren talked with Nicki on the phone yesterday, and she is understandably a mess. Fortunately, Caren's sister Sue is helping out, and we will be with her in a little less than a month.

Inger wrote us that Erik and Susan will be in the midst of Law exams, so it looks like just us and the two of you for the family din-din. Hey, it still sounds like a good time will be had by all. Remember: sushi, and let Mom do the ordering...

Love,

Sam

Yacht Rhapsodie 

Fiji

June 30, 2000 - En route Makogai - Savusavu 

Hey Pancho,

Sorry you won't be able to make our big party. If you have a chance to look in on Madame Cholvy (her husband passed away a few years ago), please give her my very best. You would also I am sure be treated to the finest of French hospitality and country cooking, in one gorgeous setting. Her address:

   Paulette Cholvy 

   Blvd. Corniche Baza 

   07200 Aubenas

   (75) 35.17.01

The coup continues to meander along, with George changing his mind every few days, drinking lots of kava with the military, and destroying the country's economy slowly but surely. Tourism is down by 90%, sugar production way off, unemployment soars, the police patrol the streets of Suva with golf clubs for weapons. The only good news is that we are perfectly safe in the islands, and the local villagers are even more delighted to have visitors when we come ashore. We just finished a two week sojourn along the North coast of Kadavu, getting our scuba diving ya-yas in (just mention the Great Astrolabe Reef to your scuba-aware friends, and watch their juices begin to flow). As I write we are headed back to Savusavu, our port of entry more than seven months ago, with stopovers in the Lomaiviti group. Yesterday, for example, we anchored off Makogai and visited the turtle and giant clam hatchery (that's right, hey are raising giant clams for eventual replacement in Fiji waters —apparently they taste good to the locals, and are becoming quite scarce). We will be in Savusavu and neighboring Taveuni for two weeks before flying back to California for our month's home leave.

So the cruising life goes on. It's been over a year, and we aren't tired of it yet, although the experience turns out to be far different from what weanticipated (but what else in life ever does?) Thanks for your phone number - I just may give you a buzz when we get to cheaper phones.

One more word on the coup. We picked this up on a pirate web site here in Fiji:

News report for 15 January 2099. George Speight's great grandson (George the Sixth) was shot at flying his space car through an aerial check point set up by the military. His threat to kill the hostage's 300 remaining descendants was not taken seriously as George Speight the Sixth is married to the great great granddaughter of Prime Minister Mahendra Chaudhry (Fatu Esi Lae) who was born in captivity and lived in the parliament grounds all her life. Too Longa Lofa, the great grandson of Timoci Silatolu III, the grandson of one of Mr Speight's original supporters, had called the attempted assassination despicable and has demanded the involvement of George Speight the 6th in any government formed. This is unlikely as no govemment has ruled Fiji since Lieutenant Colonel Apakuki Kurusiga's great great great grandson later officiated at the wedding and guests in the grounds of the Parliament complex. Too Longa Lofa and Fatu Esi Lae will honeymoon in the parliament grounds.

Footnote: Mr Speight's terrorist group has been threatening violence against the hostages for 99 years. All original hostages are now dead having died of BOREDOM and natural causes but are survived by 300 offspring.

All the best,

Sam

Yacht Rhapsodie

En route Makogai - Savusavu 

Fiji

 Sep 3, 2000 - Musket Cove, Fiji

Dear family:

Back in "Fiji Time," I marvel that I returned to this lovely country more than two weeks ago, and that this is the first time since that arrival that I have sat down and written an email to any of you. Here's hoping I can retain some of that California Efficiency I absorbed during my wonderful vacation  last month, and get back on the stick.

I speak for all the members of my nuclear family when I say that our trip to California was a huge success. We managed to visit four sets of grandparents; we saw Sue Kelman and her new flat in Sacramento; we had the best Gold Lake reunion in a long time; we had a restful stay with Ann Winblad in her Sonoma Valley home; I got to see both my brothers and their families, my mother, and Big John; Mchael and Emily Goldberg gave us the use of their lovely Woodside home for our entire stay in the Bay Area, and threw us a wonderful open house as well. Big John most generously provided us with an amazingly comfortable and commodious van which we used every day, culminating in its delivery of Dana, myself, and eight enormous pieces of luggage to San Francisco airport. We thought our original five weeks' schedule was sufficiently long for us to get all of our work done, and visit all of our family and friends. We extended our stay an additional week. We still had too little time.

Now, I must quell a rumor. It is NOT true that we have bought land in Fiji. In fact, the land that we were interested in turns out to be unacceptable, for a number of reasons which only materialized during our second visit to it (last week): can't build on the slope behind; lousy soil; too much coral on beach; beach itself not perfect. Hey, at least we got out before we got in too deep. This does not mean, however, that we have given up looking for land in this country, or in this part of the world. it just means that the number one candidate has been eliminated from the short list. I promise to keep you updated as the developments occur.

Second rumor quell: we are NOT selling our house in Portola Valley (at least, not right away). Although the idea is tempting, we are in no position to make this decision now, especially considering the house is currently occupied by a family with an ironclad two-year lease and probable connections to the Russian Mafia. Again, I will keep you posted.

So what are we going to do? In the short term, do a bit more cruising in the Yasawa Islands: we will sail to "Torn Hanks Island" tomorrow for a week's stay with two other boats (the island has a local name, but ever since Tom Hands showed up to film part of "Castaway," due out later this year, it has been informally named after him). Then back to Musket Cove to participate in our first Regatta: we will join perhaps three dozen other boats for a week of festivities, culminating in a race to Vanuatu, where we will spend another week or so with the same boats before we go our separate ways. This is a bit of a gamble -- we have never before sailed with more than one boat, let alone several dozen -- but many friends and fellow yachties have told us that the Musket Cove Regatta is one of the better ones, so we thought we would give it a try. After Vanuatu we head south for New Caledonia, and on to New Zealand in early November. We will spend the hurricane season in New Zealand, which means about six months or so, and hopefully will have the opportunity to host one or more of the Edwards clan while in this lovely country.  We haven't ruled Las Vegas out, but haven't ruled it in yet, either. How's that for being noncommittal?

Just read the New York Times Book Review article on George Packer's latest book (Caren brought the paper with her). Pretty darn impressive. John, thanks for sending the other review to me.

John, you asked family members to check out a law school web address -- we can't do this aboard Rhapsodie, so I would appreciate a textual summary of the web site.

We are going to try to get school going tomorrow -- this will be difficult after the almost two-month hiatus from the Calvert Home Schooling Program.  But each child has a brand-new box of lessons (Rachael: grade 6 and Dana: grade 5), and the novelty of the new materials may win them over (temporarily).

We are in the process of instituting further activities aboard Rhapsodie, in an effort to make life both more enjoyable and richer. Here are some candidates for incorporation into our yachting lifestyle: stricter adherence to the taking of pills (multivitamins, chewable vitamin C, vitamin E, fluoride for the kids, and Lysine for me); random checks on the children's  journal entries, so that entries of the following sort are eliminated:

This is my stupid journal entry for <date>. I am supposed to write a page. I hate writing this stupid journal. So far I have only written about a third of a page. If I write WITH BIG LETTERS I CAN FINISH THE PAGE FASTER... <etc.>

Piano lessons are also on the list, and more flute and piano duets. Plus lots more reading (we brought back a slug of new books). Fifteen minutes of yoga each morning are now scheduled for anyone who wishes to participate. The practice of short meditations before beginning school each morning will be continued, and the meditation time will be gradually extended to perhaps ten minutes. Dana now has a rubber ball which he is urged to squeeze in lieu of tapping, scraping, hitting, kicking, and otherwise rhythmically exercising his limbs while studying.

The boat is in fine shape, and we have completed a massive provisioning of fresh meats, vegetables, fruits, and canned goods. It feels good to be cruising again.

Lots of love to all from 

Sam

Yacht Rhapsodie

Musket Cove,

Fiji

Sep 11, 2000 - Musket Cove

Dear Family:

Well, everybody, I am now just two short years shy of 60. But think of poor Big Len...

We had a great party aboard Rhapsodie. I got a very authentic fishhook necklace from a yachtie friend who carves for a hobby, a couple of bags of peanuts from my sweet wife (she really knows how to please her man!), a book on how to sail from my crew Mike (hint, hint), and an underwater dive watch from everybody. Plus a home-baked chocolate cake and balloons. What more could an old fart ask for?

We continue to hang about in Fiji, although departure day definitely approaches. This week is Musket Cove Regatta Week, with about 30 yachts from all over the planet gathered together in one place in order to party, party, party. We have decided to join in the festivities, thanks to the presence of lots of children in the 7-15 year old range. We are following the maxim: "A happy yachtie kid means a happy yacht." Yesterday, for example, we all sailed (well, motored: there was no wind) to a little island a few hours to the north of Musket Cove. On the way over we threw water balloons, shot water from our water cannons, and hurled water balloons with our much-envied catapult at any unfortunate boats that got too close to us (I nailed one woman with the catapult, who suffered a big bruise on her upper thigh. Her husband, far from being upset, only wanted to know where he could buy a catapult for his boat). When we arrived on the beach, we were greeted by pirates with eye patches and swords, who made us walk over hot rocks, drink a shot of rum, and get photographed with our heads in a noose in front of a pirates' graveyard. Next were contests for the best costume, the best dancers, and the longest beard. Rachael and Dana were finalists in the limbo contest. Then a buffet lunch of rice, curry, veggies, and tropical fruits.

Today is another race to another island, but with more adult activities -- mainly lots of drinking. We decided to sit this race out. When the fun blows over, we wil! all race to Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu, and probably start partying all over again. This is the first time we have hung with other yachties, and it is definitely another way of passing time.

Still up in the air is where we will spend the next hurricane season (November - April): Australia or New Zealand? Some of you may have heard us mention New Zealand with some forcefulness in earlier correspondences. Well, Australia is now a serious contender. We won't really know which until we leave New Caledonia in November.

Lots of Love to All,

Sam

Yacht Rhapsodie 

Musket Cove, Fiji

Sep 11, 2000

Dear Big John:

Congratulations on your new computer. It is comforting to know that Bill Gates has not lost his touch, persuading otherwise intelligent people to throw away perfectly good computers for new ones every few years in the misguided belief that faster is better. Once more I am confirmed in my belief that Microsoft stock can only go up.

I've written a note to all family members, but wanted to write you directly with the firm belief that we might perhaps be in either New Zealand or Australia by November, unless we stay in New Caledonia or head north to New Guinea. The Las Vegas decision continues to wallow in a black hole of indecision (block that metaphor!) Otherwise, all is well, except that my computer seems a bit slower now.

Love,

Big Sam