Nov 1-14, 2016: Argentina
El Chaltén
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Nov. 3, 2016. Patagonia Hostel, El Chaltén, Argentina.
Three hour bus ride, about $40 - this would have cost $3 in Peru or Bolivia. Argentina is expensive! Nice pampas scenery, but overcast. At the park entrance, we were given an obligatory talk by a ranger: they will bodily remove anyone for almost any infraction. My favorite: if a dog is with you, that means you must have encouraged it, and dogs are bad because they might attack the Hummel (small deer), of which there are only a few hundred left.
Checked into this very nice hostel, went next door for a fabulous meal of pasta with mushroom sauce, a copa of vino, and cheesecake with local berries: $19. Funny, this little town in the middle of the mountains has great restaurants, and fairly reasonable. Go figure.
Then, still overcast, I walked to the waterfall (one hour each way), getting soaked on the way there, then, when the rain let up, dried out on the way back. Now sitting in the hostel, after a great hot shower and shave, with a picture window beside me and clouds and mist all around. The ranger said it might clear up by Saturday. There are two day hikes that I'd like to try before I leave, so I've got my fingers crossed. It would be a shame if it stayed crappy like now for several more days.
Nov. 4, 2016. Patagonia Hostel, El Chaltén, Argentina.
Wind howled and rain fell all night. Not motivated to do much, so waited until 9 to get up, and had a leisurely breakfast at The Waffleria (waffles with ham and cheese, and coffee) nearby. Feeling guilty and restless, I decided to at least try a little hiking, and chose the shortest hike in the guide: to a little lake nearby, two hours each way. But once on the trail I decided it wasn't so bad - in fact, hardly any rain, the wind intermittent, and the mountains somewhat visible within the clouds. So I kept on going, all the way to Lagunita Torre, three hours away. Wearing an undershirt, a cotton long-sleeve shirt, my faithful Patagonia down sweater, and my Mountain Hardwear rain jacket, along with gloves and hat, and I was pretty darn comfy. At least until the last half hour or so, when the rain and wind picked up, and my pants were totally soaked. But so what? I knew they would dry out fine back at the hostel.
The lake was most uninviting, with icebergs even, and surrounded by peaks in the mist. A few photos, and I was out of there. On the way back, stopped at a mirador of a beautiful waterfall (Margarita). After a burger I hung out in the lobby of the hostel, chatting with a French guy (Laurent), who was a month into a trip of undetermined length. We compared notes, and agreed traveling solo is the only way to go.
OK, it is now 8:30, time to hit the sack. Laurent said tomorrow is supposed to be clear and windy - that would be great. But even if it is like today was, I will head out for the other standard day hike, and then probably think of heading north to Perito Merino.
BIG problem: my iPhone doesn't like getting charged. I sure hope I can find a way to charge it, for otherwise... no photos!
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