Aug 15 - Sep 3, 2016: Ecuador
Otavalo
Otavalo
Aug 19, 2016. Rancon del Turista, Otavalo, Ecuador.
Got up faIrly early, walked to Cafe Pachamama, for a great breakfast of eggs, fruit, smoothie, croissant, butter, jam, and real coffee. Best breakfast to date. Then a bus to Cotacachi, and a taxi to the Reserva Ecological Cotacachi-Cayapas. Hiked around the beautiful lake - 4 1/2 hours. The lake is in the center of an old volcano, with two islands in its center. Took the boat ride around the islands later, and stopped to watch gases bubble up to the surface. Back to Otavalo by hitching and buses, dinner at a Chinese Restaurant for a change, watching the Olympics as I ate a huge mound of rice with veggies.
Why so many Hollister t-shirts? Also: saw DVD's for sale of movies that had not yet come out when I left home.
Met a local woman in traditional garb on the bus - she was very friendly, and we spent the time identifying all the items she was wearing. Of particular note: her sandals are made from a cactus. She may be indigenous, but she sure was friendly.
Tomorrow is the famous Saturday Market in Otavalo - supposed to be the biggest in all of South America. I'm gonna get up early and check it out - especially the small animals market. I need to buy a few guinea pigs.
Thursday morning market: Sasquili, Guamote
Saturday: Zumbahua, Guaranda, Riobamba
Monday: Guantualo, Ambato
Sunday: Pujili, Salasca, Alausi, Saraguro
Wednesday: Guaranda
Reserva Ecological Cotacachi-Cayapas
Aug 20, 2016. Rancon del Turista, Otavalo, Ecuador.
Saturday - the big market. Started at the Animal Market up the road a bit - lots of cows, pigs, chickens, some goats, rabbits, a few Guinea pigs, one lonely llama. No tourists, all business. Then the main market in Plaza del Pancho's" - filled the square, overflowed down the side streets. The usual tourist junk, but some awfully nice woven items. Hung out at a bar on the side, photographing the scene as it walked by. A fair number of tourists, but mostly locals, the women dolled up in their local outfits.
Remark: Lots of dogs, everywhere - running free, sleeping on the roads and sidewalks, alone and in packs, on roofs, some friendly some not, small poodle-like breed common. People ignore them, or are nice to them - haven't seen any bad moves towards them. A good country to be a dog. In Quito I stopped to pet a dog, and it began to follow me, for a long while, even crossing roads full of traffic. I finally lost him by grabbing a taxi.
In the afternoon walked to the Cascada de Peguche, then continued a walk of several kilometers to the Parque Cóndor, getting in just before closing - a tough hike, but I'm getting acclimatized. Nice bunch of birds of prey, and two condors. Hitched a ride back to town in the back of a local's pickup - he wouldn't take my offer to pay.
Back to the "Chinese" restaurant for a huge meal ("mixte") of all kinds of meats, very delicious. Enjoyed watching Brazil beat Germany by a hair, the crowd going bats.
Cascada de Peguche
Parque Cóndor
Aug 21, 2016. Rancon deal Turista, Otavalo, Ecuador.
Took the Tren de la Libertad Otavalo - Salinas ($35, including snacks, lunch, and entry into various items along the way). Left at 8, returned at 5:30, with stops at a weaving factory (now a museum), local dance, and a salt-making site. I was the only gringo on board, which was great. All told, a very enjoyable trip, through some lovely countryside, volcanoes everywhere. Ecuador only has this one train route, which is split into about a half dozen individual round-trip tours, of which mine was one. The train went very, very slow, and was accompanied by armed cops, both on the train and at every crossing and train station. Ecuador is taking no chances on this tourism cash cow.
Skyped Caren to tell her I would be hiking for a few days, but then I checked the weather report, and it has improved near Mt. Cayambe. So tomorrow I'll check in with the tour guide, and if it looks like a go, I will be attempting the mountain starting Tuesday.
Estación de Tren, Otavalo