Sep 4 - Oct 9, 2016: Peru

Sep. 6, 2016.  Hotel Johumaji, Chachapoyas, Peru.

• Made a last minute decision to delay my departure from Chachapoyas by another day, and instead try to see the fifth highest (third highest, if you ask Peruvians) waterfall in the world: Catarata de Gocta.  As usual, rejecting even the thought of taking a tour, I jumped on a mini-bus headed past the turnoff to the waterfall, then hitched my way up to the entrance.  $3 entrance fee, reduced 50% because I am "tercera edad" (old).  Then up and down for about two hours to one of the most beautiful waterfalls I have ever seen.  It is in two parts, and I assume both are counted in its height (771m), and you can get real close to the bottom - and get real wet, too.  Offered my first taste of coca leaves by one of the guys who picked me up - a Lima policeman on holiday - and then had a nice drink of fermented cane juice at a stop along the trail.  Good stuff.  Got thoroughly soaked at the waterfall, but my, what a sight. 

• The guys drove me back to the turnoff for Chachapoyas, and a ten minute wait for another ride into town.  This is a great country for hitching!  Checked back into my hotel, had a shower, walked on down to the main square, stopped off at a nice cafe with Internet, and here I am.  Will try again to leave tomorrow for the coast (bus is at 5 AM), but really, this is such a nice place, and there are still lots of places to go, and things to do.  Love. Peru!

• Now splurging at La Tushpa: lomo fino gratinado al ajo (sirloin, in aji - spicy pepper), with a pisco sour (grape brandy with sugar and lime juice: a Peruvian specialty).  OMG: the bill comes to $12: a new record!

• I will be sorry to leave Chachapoyas.  There are still many amazing places to go, and the town itself is simple, unpretentious, and pretty much devoid of tourists.  

• Walking back from the Big Splurge, there was some sort of student parade going on in the main plaza, with a noisy band, student groups in traditional and animal costumes, lots of screaming, jumping around, balloons, sparkly stuff.  Lots of photos, but maybe not enough light.

• Then noticed a lot of guys in a bar: Ecuador/Peru football match!  Everyone so nice, they gave me a choice seat; bought a flagon of mora (blackberry) liqueur, sat down, and Peru scored!  Life couldn't be better.  Oops, Ecuador scored on a header: 1 to 1.  Silence in the bar.

• Now decided to take the 5 AM bus tomorrow morning to Cajamarca: 10-12 hours, all day long, seriously wild and scary.

• Girls walking past bar get whistled at, but nothing more. Half time.  

• Interesting: half the guys in here aren't watching the game at all.

• GOAL! Peru ahead, 2 to 1.  Crowd goes insane.