Sep. 10, 2016
Checked out around noon, headed for the Mercado Central for another pavo sandwich and jugo mixte, then a fresh coffee, really delicious, thirty cents.
After a bit of shopping for junk food at the Mercado...
... maybe a big bag of nuts? ...
... or how about an eviscerated chicken?
I then went back to the same tour agency I used yesterday, this time for a trip to the Complejo Arqueologico la Huaca el Brujo (The Wizard), up the coast about an hour, windswept, dry, sandy, the ocean looking cold and I uninviting, but fields of sugar cane and some corn nonetheless. (In the Quechuan languages of South America, a huaca is an object that represents something revered, typically a monument of some kind).
The main section of Huaca Cao Viejo is a 27m truncated pyramid with some of the best friezes in the area - some of the original colors are still visible, with stylized life-sized warriors, prisoners, priests and human sacrifices. The museum's main attraction with the contents of the burial chamber opened in 2006 which contained an extremely well-preserved woman, buried with enough pomp to suggest she was an important Moche leader, and in fact the first female discovery of this type in Peru. She was heavily tattooed and on display with all her goodies. No photos again, but this time I cheated and got in a shot or two. Tour was kind of expensive - $16, plus $3 for the museum entry, but you only live once.
Later I headed for Huaca del Arco Iris, a pyramid surrounded by a double platform. (A huaca in Quechua is a place or object that has spiritual and sacred value). It was a place of worship, built between AD 800 and 1000, by the Sicán Civilization.
The pyramid is surrounded by high walls, with only a single entrance.
Our guide pointed out a two-headed serpent with open mouths that takes the form of a rainbow trying to swallow the figures below.
Huaca Esmeralda. The palace of a great Chimú lord. Not much to see.
Further on I glanced at the beach town of Huanchaco, with its 'Caballitos', traditional Peruvian reed boats.