2017 - 2018:  Punta Mita Mexico to Quetzaltenango Guatemala

Dec 14, 2017.  Campeche, Hotel Maya Ah Kim Pech Sucursal

• Calakmul “Two Adjacent Mounds”).  Biggest archaeological site in mesoamerica.  Over 7000 buildings in central area alone.  Great pyramid is largest Maya construction: base covers 5 acres.  Occupation began 550 BC.  Peak development during Classic period (250-900 AD).  Rival of Tikal in Guatemala.

• The most meaningful buildings were preserved and carefully buried.  The new constructions covered earlier ones, like skins of an onion.

• 1 1/2 hour drive down bad road.  Saw many oscillated turkeys, and some little black guys with raised tails.  Also small brown piglike fellas.

• Just heard a howler monkey!  

• Juego de Pelota Court.  Played with solid rubber ball, which could only be hit with the hip.  Steles in front of many buildings (but carving worn, and stucco surfaces gone).

• A long slim fox-like animal with a flowing tail just ran by: a kinkajou!

• Long walks, temples everywhere.  Biggest area yet.  But no single temple terribly outstanding.  Best for the size and the wildlife.  Three hours at the site.  Leaving just as the crowds (and heat) arrive.

Dec 15, 2017.  Mérida, Hotel Reforma

• Typical slow start: a little reading on my Kindle (Hamilton), two Coffee Break Español lessons, the 7 minute workout from the app, then a final breakfast at Luz de Luna, listening to great music by “Rosana”, then off to the ADO terminal for a 2 1/2 hour bus ride to Mérida.  I will miss this lovely, peaceful city.  

• Emailed Sheldon with a selfie of myself in front of the Olmec head he discovered.  Nice coincidence- it was the only selfie I took at the gorgeous museum in Xalapa.

• Cough still lingering - but not getting any worse.  However, I did pick up some bites on my legs, and there are still annoying bumps behind both ears.  Farmacia time!

• Since the bus ride is reasonably long, I’ll wear Depend adult underpants (cf The Infinite Jest).

• OK, no problems on the bus. Checked into my very nice hotel and headed straight for the La Chaya Maya (Chaya is a green special to this area).  I am starting with sopa de Lima (chicken broth with local citrus), followed by 3 panuchos (crisp corn tortillas topped with shredded turkey, pickled onions, Chaya, avocado and radish.  And horchata with shredded coconut to wash it all down.  Haven’t decided on dessert yet.  What’s not to like in this wonderful country?  OK, dessert: caballero libre (Yucatán bread pudding), topped with ice cream and Xtabentún (a Mayan liqueur made from anise seed and fermented honey produced by bees from the nectar of xtabentún flowers.  Woo woo!

• The city is loaded with tourists of all sizes, shapes, and ages - and mostly Americans.  One result: the taxi driver, the waiters, all speak some English.  Not sure I like these changes.  Except it’s nice to have so many good restaurants around.  And good local beer.  I may linger awhile.

• Horse drawn carriages clip-clipping by.  Every store, restaurant, Hotel has its Christmas decorations up.  

• Ridiculous re-enactment of “Pom at Poker” (Juego de pelota Maya) in the main plaza at 8, attended by hundreds of tourists and locals.  I left before the ritual decapitation of the losing team.

Dec 16, 2017. Mérida, Hotel Reforma 

• Juego de pelota mesoamericano is the oldest team sport in the world (first courts date to 1400 BC).

• Gran Museo del Mundo Maya not so Grand, although the building was.  Found out my Maya date of birth (6-Manik) animal association (deer), and characteristics (strong people, both spiritually and physically.  Agile, responsible, friendly and intelligent.  Able to convince others of their position.  Sure of themselves.  Respected in their communities as authority that comes from the ancestors.  Able to endure great hardship while enjoying fine health.  Masculine.  Administrators, public servants, psychologists, sociologists, scientists, consultants and spiritual guides.)

• Lunch at Apoala: Flores en amarillo: Tempura zucchini blossoms stuffed with quesillo, cilantro, and herbia santa over mole amarillo.

• Dinner at La Chaya Maya: Chaya with lime juice, tamale colado (blend of turkey, tomatoes, onions, sweet peppers, & spices, wrapped in a layer of masa, then in banana leaves and slowly steamed).  Desert: Ciricote en almibar (fruit of circote tree in sweet syrup with cinnamon.

• Sound & light on the front of the Catedral de San Ildefonso.  Not as good as the one in Campeche, but still pretty cool.