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Nov 26, 2017. Cuetzalan del Progreso, Posada Jaqueline
Early start for Cantona, which turned out to be one of the best pre-Hispanic sites yet. Covering 12 sq km dotted with cacti and yucca, it is the biggest urban center in Mesoamerica. 24 ball courts, numerous temples, over 3000 urban dwellings linked by raised roads, everything constructed without mortar, and practically no one there besides me. It thrived on its obsidian trade, of all things.
Then on to Cuetzalan along a ridge-hugging pothole-infested road, arriving mid afternoon for the famous Sunday market, with its indigenous people in local garb, and plenty of homemade hooch infused with coffee, lime, soursop, tamarind, you name it (tried several at Bar el Calate, just off the Zocalo). My room, around $20, looked out over the Zocalo. Dinner at Restaurante Yoloxóchitl next door, with chipotle Chile and mushrooms. so good.
2017 Mexico Cantona.MOVCantona
Cuetzelan
Nov 27, 2017. Papantla de Olarte, Hotel Provincia Express
A great breakfast of some amazing egg and green chili concoction, huge fresh squeezed orange juice, tortillas and coffee at La Terraza. Then a short drive to Yohualichán, a pre-hispanic site constructed by the Totonic people during the Classic period (200-1000 AD). Impressive pyramids amongst grassy fields, and nary a tourist in sight. A really lovely way to spend the morning.
Then a much longer drive further north, along the usual crappy road, through fields of corn, cattle, oranges, misty distant vistas, down from 8,000 feet to almost sea level (though still quite a ways inland), to Veracruz’s best (and largest?) pre-Hispanic site, El Tajin. Wow. Pyramid after pyramid, covering an area of over 10 square kilometers, and built around 100 AD, it is not clear who built it (Totonic?). And again, hardly any tourists. This is clearly the right season to visit. In the afternoon witnessed a Voladoris performance (suggested donation: $2.50), with four guys jumping off the top of a really high pole and spinning slowly to the ground, face down, held by ropes to their feet. Wow again.
I am writing this journal entry sitting at the upstairs patio of the Plaza Pardo, overlooking the very active Zocalo of Papayntla, the nearest town to El Tajín. Just ordered octopus prepared in its own ink, and will follow it with two scoops of vanilla ice cream (I’m in the vanilla capital of the world).
Yohualichan
2017 Mexico Voladoris.MOVEl Tajin, Veracruz
2017 Mexico El Tajin.MOVEl Tajin at 60 miles an hour
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