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July 17, 2018. Idaho!
Just outside the Yellowstone boundary. Hiked 12 hours, started stopping more frequently towards end of day. Right shoulder painful at times: try ibuprofen tomorrow? Leaving Yellowstone lots of geyser steam over treetops. Then past a basin full of bubbling and hissing action. Saw maybe five people all day, and no one at the designated campsites. Seen three other CDT hikers: “Nope” at the start, one guy passing me on day one (and asking if I was all right: I was weaving to the left, as is my won’t when I’m really tired), and a SOBO section hiker.
Second half of today through burned-out trees, then sudden hailstorm for about an hour. Yesterday there was gentle rain around 6. I hope this is not going to become a regular occurrence (like Colorado).
Still not hungry. Tried a freeze-dried meal this morning, but could only eat half. M&Ms and nuts don’t do it for me. The only sure thing is Swiss Miss.
Charge from 100% down to 66%. (Yesterday went down to 7%, with calls & such). Using my massive battery pack tonight for the third time. Love it!
Mile 2035, 15 miles (elev 8141)
July 18, 2018. Mile 9.7, Mack’s Inn Alternate, 13.7 miles.
Met Skeeter & Steel. 206-495-5724. She’s gonna see her mother at Mack’s Inn. He fixed the crazy color scheme on my iPhone!
Met Downtime, Foundation, Walkie-Talkie.
Started out ok, breakfast of Top Ramen (chili flavor - never again) and a Swiss Miss, and felt pretty good for first few hours; then downhill all the way: right shoulder pain, pack not sitting straight, always tending to left, etc. Started stopping every 15 minutes or so. Also, water hard to find - one spring the entire day - and a hot, boring day along a logging trail. I ate a few M&M’s, but otherwise nothing until a Swiss Miss for dinner. Nothing else appeals - I’m just not hungry - and haven’t been since I began this crazy adventure.
Only 5 miles to Mack’s Inn, but can’t make in time for doing stuff, so will Cowboy camp and hit it in the morning. Stopping at 7, now 8, and clear and beautiful in the lodgepole pines next to the road. Hope my energy starts rising soon...
Talked with Caren: she made it to Bermuda in 4-5 days, port engine wouldn’t start upon arrival, suspects the fuel needs purifying. Next stop: another 4-5 days to the East Coast. What a woman! And Dana sent a great picture of the Dolomites from the porch of his Couchsurfing rental.
Dilemma: I only have about a third of a liter of water. Should I (a) Use it for drinking until I get to Mack’s Inn tomorrow morning; (b) Make more Swiss Miss with it; or (c) Do a Top Ramen? This is a toughy.
Haven’t figured out the weather here. Hot during daytime, sometimes brief cloudbursts/hailstorms in the afternoon, then cold at night (twice woke up shivering). My lightweight bag offers little - it’s down pants and parka for bedclothes.
July 19, 2018- Mile 17, Mack’s Inn Alternate, 7 Miles.
Craig Cutler: 208-351-7511 - walked awhile with him. 17 years summering in Mack’s Inn.
Jerry (wouldn’t give last name)
Tough morning walking last 4 miles to Mack’s Inn. Sure hope I feel stronger soon. Left my charger to be recharged at the Post Office (will pick up my package later), downed two soft drinks from the machine next door, walked across the bridge over the Snake River to the Cafe Sabor Mexican Restaurant, downed a not very good quesadilla meal with a glass of Chardonnay, a passion fruit lemonade, and 4 large ice waters. Sitting in the cool inside, not looking forward to the rest of the day.
Mary & Charley Evans - 865-335-0798. Townsend, Tennessee. Mary@utk.edu. Chatted with them in the Mexican Restaurant bar (I hung out all afternoon, rehydrating - but no beer yet - doesn’t appeal to me yet - and that is a sign I’m not yet in shape.
Jackrabbit & Natural: 262-343-6580. Jackrabbit full of all sorts of info - even identified my big worm as a snake: he’d seen one in Northern Oregon. Natural swarthy and quiet. I liked them both.
Bernadette Armstrong- 778-533-3736, boocoupe@yahoo.com, Victoria B.C. Mom of Skeeter. Into genealogy.
Everybody stayed at Sawtelle Mountain Resort campsite ($30, including hot showers, indoor pool and hot tub. I used the facilities with Mom, while the hikers sat at the campsite table and consumed a quite impressive number of beers.
July 20, 2018 - Mile 27, Mack’s Inn Alternate, 10 Miles, 8,870 feet altitude.
$5 breakfast with the boys and girl, but they were too engrossed with each other to pay any attention to me. I’m just an old guy to them.
Then had my first marijuana puff - good feeling, lasted for a couple of hours. But not much effect when I tried another hit.
Stopped for a latte across the street for about an hour, reading the local news while I charged my iPhone and charger. Then finally off around 11. Uh-oh, major pain in right hip, where the backpack hip belt crosses. Forced to creep along, with frequent stops. Tried two schedule 1 pain killers, but no noticeable relief. If this doesn’t get fixed, I’m in for some short mileage days. Couple of CDT hikers passed me with tiny packs, much smaller than mine. What am I doing wrong?
Charge at 70% - won’t recharge now.
July 21, 2018 - Mile 32, Mack’s Inn Aiternate, 5 Miles
Cat Water. 907-244-6441. Alaska. Potential crew (husband as well). Good looking, amiable, with-it outdoor lady.
This has been, without a doubt, the hardest hiking day of my life. My right hip continues to hurt with every step. Everything else is secondary. I would walk for ten minutes,stumbling along oh-so-carefully, with a curious quarter rotation with every srep. Then off with backpack, time to flake out for 15 minutes or so and drink some water. It helps me when I remind myself that the mileage is irrelevant. So the breaks are actually kind of nice, me on my back, looking the scene over. But oh boy- if this doesn’t get better - time for a big change of plan.
Stupid move of the day: lost the top to my Gatorade bottle. I knew I would do that eventually. At least I have a spare: the bag for my water filtration system (which I hope never to use). Stupid move of yesterday: Accidentally poured almost all of my bleach out.
Been thinking about documenting my stuff. Idea: Everything is in (or accessible from) an App, named Sam Edwards, and with my photo of it. Contains tree structure of documents (Microsoft Word, stored on my Google Docs), Videos (stored on YouTube, Audible items, photos and slideshows (sores on Google Photos). Documents can contain other objects. I like this idea because it is mostly free, and uses workhorse stuff that people are used to.
July 22, 2018 - mile 2120, 13 miles, 9550 ft.
Not as seriously difficult as yesterday, but still very tough. Less pain in shoulders, arms, and right hip (yay!), but general overall tiredness: I continued to stop for water / IPhone/ rest stops frequently. Also, another bad water day: a liter & a pint for 15 miles. I’m down to a pint, with 11 miles to water. Tomorrow morning does not look like fun. But at least it doesn’t have today’s 5 mile uphill slog.
July 23, 2018 - mile 2130, 10 miles, 7570 ft
7-11 photo. Not up for connecting with others later, so no phone number.
Another very tough day. Ten miles with only one gulp until this stream. Nothing to eat or drink all day. Also some bushwhacking - hard to follow the trail in the meadows. Nice wildflowers though - for the past several days; but slogging through them is slow going.
Zipper on sleeping bag finally gave out. Will try putting mat inside bag, unzipped side of bag facing mat - just like some fancy bags are designed.
Job 1: Eat more. Meal and two Swiss Miss tonight, cold coffee (the instant is Really good - better than Starbucks instant), a meal or instant oats for the first time - too bad I don’t like them very much.
July 24, 2018 - mile 2141, 11 miles, 8410
Started out better (cold coffee), stopped at camp table (!) for ramen. Stayed stronger until around 3, then began dragging (but not nearly as many stops). Camping by small lake - hope bugs and moisture aren’t bad. No tent again - but looks a little threatening. Blew at least two hours losing the trail and then bushwhacking to find it. Lost the trail several times in the past few days. Oh, how I hate that.
First day I’ve seen nobody.
July 25, 2018 - mile 2154, 13 miles, 8380 ft
Long John: SOBO
Gutsy & Odometer: SOBO
Better today: big lunch stop near horse trough spring helped - I’ve been eating so little. Still: steadier, fewer stops, slightly hungrier, right hip seems to be staying the course.
Lima: 10.7 miles ahead.
July 26, 2018 - 10.7 miles
Two step and Split in Lima. Met them last year at CDT meeting in Silver City.
To do in Lima:
Fix sleeping bag zipper
Photo of backpack contents
Spreadsheet of pack contents
Fill bleach bottle
Rain kilt. Check out auto pays
Order compass, waterproof headlamp, water scoop
July 27, 2018 - zero day, Lima, MT
Totally wiped. Mailed home my Merino outfit and other stuff. Now just have to pack my food. My package arrived, and the snack shop across the way has tons of stuff. I’m just worried that I have to average 13 miles/day to make it in 8 days. And the trail is supposed to be tough up ahead.
All packed, sent some stuff home, food for 8 days, just fits in the bear bag. I’m nervous because I will have to average at least 13 miles a day, and I’ve gone that far once since I started in Yellowstone. But at least water won’t be as awful a problem: I discovered I had in the bottom of my pack my 2 liter Platypus bladder. With that, a Gatorade, and a liter of water, I’ll be able to carry 4 liters. Good thing, too: it’s 16 miles to the first water tomorrow.
Blaze. Met at Peat Steak House. (Grill your own steak)
July 28, 2018 - mile 2173, 7 miles, 7550 ft.
Oboy, pack really heavy - stopped early in the hope that tomorrow I’ll be stronger. Just dragged along at about a mile an hour. Ouch.
July 29, 2018 - mile 2185, 12 miles, 7620 ft., 7:30 AM - 7:30 PM.
Camped near Shineberger Creek. Saw one hiker, who blazed past me going at least twice my speed, damn his eyes. Started well today - moving right along, no aches or pains. Around 2-3 started to slow down, really pooping along by the end of the day. Trail was one continuous up and down fields, the ups Really steep. With a normal trail and a bit more rehab, and I should be able to do 15 mile days.
82 miles to Leadore.
July 30, 2018 - mile 2198, 13 miles, 7790 ft., 8:00 AM to 6:30 PM.
Camped near good (unnamed) stream. Every day a little better. Handled 1,500 uphill to over 9000 ft with no problem. Badly started to give out later: around 4 PM?
One guy also camped nearby- only hiker I’ve seen today. Good breakfast: coffee (ooh that new instant is SO GOOD), Swiss Miss with milk, granola with milk. Then about a quarter of the salami midday, and of course almonds and M&Ms (although I’m not crazy wild about them yet).
Weather clear and warm, a little too warm late in the day - at least no rain. 70 miles to Leadore.
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