May 15, 2017
Mile 10 to Gila River
Missed seeing Doug the Hermit, but Wrong Way passed me later. Decided not to do Gila River: 70 crossing, and rocky shores, for 13 miles. Instead, will do 6.4 miles to Hiway 15 in the morning, where there is a restaurant. Then will walk the hiway to Doc Campbell’s.
Had two Swiss Miss, instant potatoes, and foil tuna: yes, appetite is coming back. But pee is still pretty yellow.
May 16, 2017
Got to Hiway 15 on Spring Canyon Trail # 247: maps.me had it perfect. Then up a bit on 15, right on 35 for 4 miles to Mesa Campground on Lake Roberts. Hailed and rained twice on the way; had a chance to try out new rain jacket and pack cover: good! Set up tent for first time; ate well; feeling much better.
May 17, 2017
Popsicle: Met at Doc Campbell’s after I hiked from Mesa Campground to Doc’s: 18 miles of road. Booked to stay at RV park, but Popsicle was told they were full (!): I’m the only one, too, the bastards. She is an ultra marathoner, but headed back to Silver City to be checked out for various ailments. She knows Wrong Way, who is finishing the CDT for a triple-triple (!); been at it for 9 years.
Will definitely break the walk to Pie Town in two pieces; otherwise, more than 10 days. But requires big hitch to Reserve.
Chama -> Wolf Creek Pass. Take Ley’s alternate down El Rito Azul, connects to Conejos River, connects to The Great Divide alternate, and then Elwood Pass alternate; beautiful and some dry land.
El Meson Lodge, Chama: make reservation: friendly!
Stay at CDT campground in Cuba: Rebel’s Roost, 1/4 mile past Los Pinots Road on Hiway 550.
In Reserve: stay at Frisco’s: $69 hiker special.
Pie Town; The Gathering Place for food.
Are they skinny dipping? Hard to tell.
May 18, 19, 2017. Doc Campbell’s, Gila Cliff Dwellings
Nice night at RV Park - hot shower in morning! Will pick up packages (2) when Doc’s opens, have some ice cream, head to Gila Cliff (Ley CDT New Mexico map 34), then Little Bear Canyon, to NM 28.
Doc Campbell’s -> Gila River: 67 miles
Gila River -> Hiway 12: 23 miles
Total: 90 miles
Pack not as bad as I thought - and shoulders didn’t hurt all day (left the chest strap off again).
First visited the Gila Cliff Dwellings (wonderful), then hiked the cutoff to the Middle Fork of the Gila River (~ 4 hours, last bit a lovely slot canyon). Felt good all day. Camping beside the river, weather perfect, another group about 100 meters away, cliffs stretching vertically for hundreds of feet. Heaven.
Started hiking (after morning shower at RV Park, and ice cream at Doc’s) around 11: total covered ~ 9 miles (not counting side trip to Gila Cliff Dwellings). Slow, easy, fun day.
At Gila River Alternate, mile 47.3, Ley NM map 34.
Hiway 12 46.4 miles from me; mile 374.8
Break at 12:30, at 54.4 -> 7 miles in 5 hours -> 1.5 miph.
Stopped 7 PM at mile 61.3 -> total: 15 miles. Fell once on slippery rocks, bending one hiking pole slightly. Crossed Gila River a gazillion times.
May 20, 2017. Gila River
Woke up with socks and shoes frozen solid. Put them in plastic bag and then in my sleeping bag. Who’d a thought it would get so cold, with 85 degree days? And why didn’t I get cold in my light sleeping bag?
At ~ 1 PM: mile 67.8 -> 6.5 miles in 6 hours: ouch! Stopped at 6:30 after 1 hour wrong way up “Little River”. Camping by Gila River at 73.7 -> 12.4 miles. Snow Lake 3 miles ahead. Hiway 12 at 374.8 (just below where Pie Town road walk alternate begins). Gila alternate ends at 105 -> 31 miles from here -> 23+31 = 54 miles to 21!
Saw bobcat and two deer.
May 21, 2017. Snow Lake
Met Pit Stop and Driver near Snow Lake. Half day slogging through Gila River, then it opened up and I was on an ordinary dirt road. Stopped at 6:30 at mile 51.3 -> 13.6 miles: a new record! Still slow, tired, shoulder hurts from pack. Got about 5 liters of water at pond.
Back of ankles sore from brush and tightness of socks. Very slow and creaky; hard to sit down, and then hard to stand up. Wasn’t like this on the PCT…
May 22, 2017
Finally out of Gila River and onto dusty road. German hiker who passed me said he saw two wolves, and helped adjust my pack. Forest Service drove by and gave me water: carrying about 4 1/2 liters. Went back and forth deciding whether to take official CDT, Hiway 29 to 12, or 94 to Apache Creek. Chose latter: 25 miles ending in a store on 12. Kept a pretty steady clip, but still slower than the old days; and when I stop, I have trouble sitting, moving around, doing all the camping chores. Tomorrow: 18 miles to store.
Ankles feel better - that climber salve seems to be helping.
May 23, 2017. Reserve, NM
All day on Hiway 94: 18 miles to Apache Creek. Along the walk, Forestry Service and Fire folks gave me water, an orange, and a sandwich (!)
Kandy gave me ride to Reserve from store (her day off). Took “suite” (3 rooms, kitchen, etc.) for $100 (only room left). Full pizza at town bar.
Check out the guns - and the Confederate flag
May 24, 2017. Reserve, NM
Very stiff - hobbling around. Blister on right foot. Plan to take Ley red route to Pie Town: 40 miles.
First water: Upper Barrier tank, mile 4.6
Next water: Patterson Tank, mile 8.7
Next water: Valle Too Vinces Tank, mile 10
Next water: Manges Lookout, mile 13.7
Next water: Pond, ~ mile 16.2
Next water: Pond, 17.4 (!)
Next water: Pond, 19.4
Next water: Water tank, 23.3 (!)
Pie Town: mile 40.
Now have:
3 cup of soups
1 nuts
1 potatoes
1 oatmeal
3 Swiss Miss
1 Payday
1 Clif bar
Saw Kandy this morning as the cook at the BarBQue Cafe: took photo. Spent morning at cafe talking with oner: PhD in biology, history major, great-great-grandfather started town, fought at Gettysburg for the South, was a surgeon in the Civil War.
Then paid $30 for ride to where Hiway 12 crosses CDT (~ 25 miles). Started around noon, stopped around 7: 10 miles on Pie Town roadwalk alternate. =
May 25, 2017
Full day slogging north on Pie Town Road Walk Alternate.
May 26, 2017
Half day to Pie Town. Sheridan, local guys, drove by, stopped, offered me a beer. Passed by Hot Rod. Just had berry pie at a local restaurant, paid for anonymously by bikers at the next table (!) Phoned Caren and (hopefully) settled BofA credit card.
Two guys at Toaster House are biking to Canada: “Ride the Divide”. Best time: 13 days.