Embedded Files
Mar 24, 2019. Viñales.
Breakfast at the Casa Particular, and hoping that Raquel has arranged a collectivo for me. She also promised to phone Olga at my Casa in Viñales, Amanacer San Vicente. Supposed to be a 3-4 hour ride.
Problem: restaurants, buses and collectivos are really cold - they love A/C here.
Collectivo arrived late. Got in (7 others, plus driver, in 1952 Ford station wagon). Driver told me I was in a different collectivo. Got out. Driver told me actually I am in his collectivo. Got back in. Off we go. Flat farm fields of the usual, with tobacco and drying barns as we neared Viñales. I only had 11 CUCs, and had told the driver ahead of time. But because he was late, the Cadeca was closed when we got to Viñales. He groused and bitched. I told him to be tranquilo, and paid him $25 US (price was 25 CUC), which he accepted without a problem. Changed my US$100 bill for 87 CUCs (the government takes a cut with US currency). Money now no problem.
Taxi to Casa Amanacer San Vicente with driver Yuri. Olga greeted us - lovely women, lovely casa, lovely location. Happy to be out of the city, which has an enormous number of tourists- more crowded than Havana. Back to town with Yuri (10 for round trip). Getting a sandwich & beer atl Esquinita, 20 minutes before my horse riding with Jose (Pepito) begins. Woo woo!
Horse ride fun, through lovely tobacco fincas in a valley surrounded by limestone cliffs. And Pupito is the real day - straight out of central casting. Still s few tourists around, but I had Pupito to myself.
Stopped at a finca for a nice explanation of how the tobacco for the best cigars in the world is raised. Filed our guide roll a cigar in about 4 minutes (with local honey as an additive and glue). Then lit up a cigar, with honey on the mouth end, and, careful not to inhale, puffed away - and liked it. Bought a packet of about 8 cigars for my buds at home for $30.
Next a little local rum, aged and fermented with local fruits to increase the alcohol content. Called Guayabita Del Pinar, it has a tiny guava fruit in each bottle,and can only be purchased from the Pinar region, and only privately (not in markets). The guide wanted $30 - Olga, my Hostal hostess, sold me a bottle for $15. I’m sitting on the front porch of my room in her Casa Particular, Amanacer San Vicente, sipping some as I write this, with her cat on my lap.
She’s got amazing energy, and her Hostal is lovely, and more importantly, about 6 km outside of the tourist-infested, cheek to jowel Casas in town. Peaceful, beautiful grounds, and next to a hotel with two swimming pools and WiFi. She also clued me into how I can see all the natural stuff tomorrow by local bus tour for about $5 (sorry Yuri). And she’s cooking me dinner. And she’s arranging for me to stay an extra day here instead of Habana. And she can reserve a Viazul bus for me to Habana when I finally get my ass into gear. Screw Havana - this is the place to be.
Eating dinner on the back porch of the main house, preapatrd by Olga: great bean soup, tomato and cucumber salad (with oil & vinegar), rice and beans , sliced & fried plantains, and a huge plate of camarones and rice. Ridiculously delicious.
And the Casa is lovely: towel on the bed shaped ibmnto a swan, holding a flower and surrounded by flowers; fresh flowers elsewhere in the large bedroom and bathroom; fridge stocked with good stuff and supporting a tray of several runs; two big double beds; silk sheets; heart-shaped silk pillows; big supply of water bottles; fan and A/C with remote controls; bedside lamp; lots of electric outlets;porch with two rocking chairs.
OK, calling it quits at 8:15 PM. Will read a little of El Norte, although it is pretty dry stuff - will get more interested when we get to more modern times - then hopefully 10 hours until another monster Casa Particular breakfast, this time a la Olga.
Mar 25, 2019. Viñales
Monster breakfast indeed: fruit, eggs, pancakes, ham & cheese sandwiches, coffre with milk, fruit juice - couldn’t finish it all. And the house cat beside me, three vultures sunning themselves in a nearby tree, a pair of woodpeckers flying to and fro, feeding their babies in a hole in a telephone pole. And clear skies (yesterday it was cloudy, even slightly drizzly).
Took the local Viazul tour bus with Olga (she was heading to town for some shopping) for 5 CUCs. Stopped a couple of places, took a couple of photos, ended up in town to purchase a 1 CUC WiFi card (good for one hour). It worked! Also a reservation on the Wednesday noon Viazul bus to Habana (8). Not much family news, except an email from Bruce in Shanghai, and the Mueller report exonerating Trump - damn!
Back to the Casa by 1, hanging out reading NY Times news and Empire’s Crossroads, a history of the Caribbean from Columbus Times. Dinner later today a la Olga, early to bed, then pool time tomorrow at the hotel next door. Getting lazy? You bet. She’s found me another Casa nearby for tomorrow night.
Skyped Donovan - it was his eighth birthday. Much screaming & shouting.
Mar 26, 2019. Viñales
40 pushups!
Lots of female travelers- usually in pairs.
Switched to finca across the street: Casa Yasmin, in Finca La Gallega. Surrounded by fields, limestone cliffs. Big old bulls yoked for plowing. Pigeons in a little bird house. Pig strolling around. Will take dinner and breakfast here.
Joined 5 CUC bus tour again: to see Mirador on a clear day; to get more CUCs in town; maybe shop around a little. Then swimming pool of fancy hotel in the afternoon?
Tried changing five 500-note Mexican pesos at the Cadeca, but two of the notes were rejected because of minor imperfections. Anyway, I’ve got enough CUCs to make it through the rest of my time In Cuba - but no extra money for presents.
Hanging out for an hour in a bar for the next bus - the smell of cigar smoke is overwhelming.
But back at the Casa, a lovely (and of course, enormous) meal, then early to bed. Another Ambien - I’ve had quite a few of late - and more of The Uninhabitable Earth: Life After Warming, David Wallace-Wells. Truly depressing.
Google Sites
Report abuse