Mexico  

Nov 5, 2013: Crossed into Mexico at Tijuana around 6 AM, took a bus to Ensenada, where I had a delicious seafood dish at a very busy restaurant.  Ah, Mexico!

One of Ensenada's main exports is all kinds of interesting pharmaceuticals (I especially liked the free shot glass or key chain for viagra purchases).

That same evening I dropped in to El Coralito, with music and paper money hanging everywhere.

Nov 11: St. Ignatio.  Over the next few days I I worked my way down by bus to St. Ignatio.  A beautiful walk in from the main highway, near the Rio St. Ignatio, with its lovely mission and many date palms (intermingled with cacti).  The mission was founded in 1728, and the is the most northern Spanish mission in the state of Baja California Sur. The big activity: sitting on the patio, watching people walk by (very few!) 

To see the paintings in the Cueva del Raton I picked up a guide at a nearby ranch (turkeys, chickens, goats, a donkey, and 3 absolutely silent dogs, but ready to play at the least encouragement).  We walked for about an hour through flat desert with cardon cacti (the biggest in the world), and "pitalaya dulce" (organ pipe cactus with red fruits, and roosting vultures).  It is named for an image of what inhabitants once thought was a rat (or mouse) but is more likely a cougar.

On the way back to town a pretty schoolgirl walked a bit with me, and gave me a pitalaya dulce to eat, bright red and delicious.  Apparently the Spanish used it against scurvy. In town, I sat on the patio in front of the smoothie store with the owner, an old guy from yesterday, and the woman who runs the restaurant.  I had a mango smoothie and a slice of pie (it was the only open restaurant, and I was the only customer). 

Nov 15: Mulege.  Met Susan Walker (suscwal@gmail.com) at El Candillo Restaurant yesterday.  From Spokane, has motor home on Rio Santa Rosalia.  Walked from town along river past her motor home (1 hour) to view mouth.  Lots of birds (pelicans, terns, my first frigate birds, herons, egrets, kingfishers).  Stripped and took my first dip in the Sea of Cortez.  Many dead fish & rays on sand.  Photos of pelicans, seagulls, & vultures, all hanging out together.

Walked this morning to the Mission Santa Rosalia.  Great view of river & date (fig?) palms.  Now breakfast at Los Equipales (“best breakfast in Mulege”): huevos rancheros, papas, frijoles, cebollas, cafe con leche, jugo do naranja, tortillas de maiz y de trigo.

Evening meal with Susan at “The Gecko” down Hiway a bit.  Birthday party (85th?) for woman who, a few years ago, spent night on her wind surfer when mast broke, paddled to shore in morning.  About 30 people, everybody knows everybody, Susan the most.  Best chile rellenos I’ve ever had.

Festival in full swing, singers until midnight (right next to my hotel).  Last night watched first night of 3 day Fiesta Culturel: cool dude reciting poetry.  Sergio (612 127 1538) says call him in La Paz for place to stay.  He sat near me for awhile listening to the music, then introduced himself.  Very friendly town.  I could live here, except for the summers.

Festival in full swing, singers until midnight (right next to my hotel).  Last night watched first night of 3 day Fiesta Culturel: cool dude reciting poetry.  Sergio (612 127 1538) says call him in La Paz for place to stay.  He sat near me for awhile listening to the music, then introduced himself.  Very friendly town.  I could live here, except for the summers.