Embedded Files
04/08/15 Meitar to Jerusalem. Big plan was to hike two days in one, but the heat (around 100 all day) and no wind really nailed me. Plus a second boring route among hay fields and past huge barreling trucks, with several more similar days ahead, caused me to backtrack a bit to the nearest water source (I started with 4 liters, but it went fast). Turns out the source included a convenience store. Easily downed a 1 1/2 liter bottle of coke. Struck up a conversation with the guy at the next table. Told him I didn't want to walk the next 30 km along dusty roads to Jerusalem, so he immediately offered to drive me there, with a great stop on the way for a dip in a pond. (One of his daughters wanted to know when was the last time I had taken a bath, that's how bad I was). So Ariel drove me into Jerusalem, dropped me off within one block of a hostel that (after a bit of bargaining) dropped their price from 240 sh to 70 sh. And so now I sit in a great little cafe off a street full of amazing sights, happy to be off the trail and in this great city for a few days.
04/09/15 Jerusalem. Sitting in the hotel "den", with a fabulous view of the new city from the balcony. Weather has gone from really hot to cold and drizzly - perfect for hanging out, reading up on Jerusalem, not backpacking. Need to get a new pair of shoes and wash some socks, but otherwise will take it very easy.
Took free tour of old quarter this afternoon (guide Ryan). Great intro, but very cold and windy. Forecast for next few days is rain.
04/10/15. Jerusalem.
Breakfast with David Martino, who told me about fish hatcheries in Israel. It is big business, and Israel is a leader in the research, but most of it is in the south (Negev), so may not have a chance to visit for Rachael.
Last day of Pesach. Could not reach Ari, so will be unable to celebrate with him and his family. Instead, joined group of Ethiopian Christians walking the Via Dolorosa (stations of the cross), ending up on a jammed rooftop overlooking the Ethiopian Patriarchate. After about two hours the Patriarch showed up, food was passed around, and I was able to move again.
Visited the Church of the Holy Sepulcher next, also jammed, hung out listening to a choir of young girls until a cool looking old church dude came by in procession. Amazing number of police and military everywhere.
Finally, the Western Wall, jammed with Hasidic men (women are separated by a fence), with amazing head gear and robes, all in black. I got scolded for reading from my Kindle (only Torah!)
04/11/15. Jerusalem. Shabbat. Rain predicted, so chose indoor stuff: Israel Museum and Shrine of the Book (which houses the Dead Sea scrolls). Archaeology section of museum wonderful, with clear explanatory notes in English, and not at all crowded. Lots of "world's oldest" and "world's first" stuff. Took lots of photos. Great outdoor model of Jerusalem at the time of Herod. He may have been a mean bastard, but he sure liked to build. Rained on my return walk to the hostel.
04/12/15. Jerusalem. Rain. Writing this from the hostel's common room, with its balcony overlooking Jaffa Road, hoping the rain stops soon.
Stopped in early afternoon - time for a visit to the Temple Mount. Wow. Headed back, within 100 meters of the hostel, and it starts to hail! Tomorrow promises to be better weather.
04/13/15. Jerusalem. No rain, but still darn cold. Listened to lovely early morning singing (in Armenian) at St. James. Then a history lesson at the Tower of David museum, a meal of pita bread, hummus, and salad at my favorite felafel place in the Christian quarter. Took the plunge and rode the tram plus bus to see the Chagall windows in the Synagogue of the Hadassah-Ein Kerem Medical Center. Chagall figured out how to put multiple colors on individual glass panes.
Then the extensive military cemeteries (seemingly one for every category, eg paratroopers, or Ethiopians). Finally, the holocaust museums. Once you enter, it is impossible to escape. You are routed back and forth, by fences and gates, and everywhere are photos, relics, videos of survivors describing their Experiences. Unrelenting and powerful. Many groups of young Israeli military recruits. The Children's Museum was a dark room full of reflected spots of light, with a voice repeating the names, ages, and origins of the 1.5 million children who lost their lives. Brutal.
04/14/15. Jerusalem. Lots of walking, to and from the Mount of Olives. Churches, cemeteries, and great views of the old city. Walked back through the Orthodox section. Surprised at how crowded, messy, even squalid it looked. Have decided to take the bus (231 or 21) to Bethlehem tomorrow. In no hurry to get back on the trail - too much to see!
Great view from the hostel lounge over Jaffa Street (the main drag). The only vehicles allowed are the electric trams and police cats, so walking (and biking) in this part of town are a real treat. Plenty of shops, snack bars, mini markets. I usually go for pizza, or salad, or bagels, or hummus and felafel. Prices about the same as in the States. There is even a kosher McDonalds, but it doesn't seem to get much business. The old town, entered via the Jaffa Gate, is a 10 minute walk.
I heard that the Pope called the Turkish massacre of Armenians during the second world war "genocide". I wonder how the Armenian population here is reacting? (The old city has 4 quarters, one of which is Armenian.)
Google Sites
Report abuse