Jan 5, 2018. Hotel Posada de la Jungla, Flores, Guatemala
8 hours on a mini bus with passengers from 8 countries aboard (Sweden, Poland, Austria, France, Norway, Ireland, USA, and Mexico). I was the only yankee aboard. In fact, I’ve seen very few Norte Americanos these past few months (not counting the cruise ship passengers at Cancún and Mahahual). My fellow Americans don’t know what they are missing. When I mentioned to one scuba diver that I was traveling around on local buses, he was shocked.
The few hours I spent driving through Belize were strangely unsettling. Flat, boring scenery; run-down homes and shops; English signs, always somewhat “off”; U.S. companies everywhere. And Belize City looked just awful. Not sorry that I didn’t stop. Most of the other tourists on the bus were headed for Caye Caulker via the Belize City ferry.
Now sitting at a lakeside restaurant enjoying happy hour mojitos and my first Guatemalan food: bean, bacon, and something else soup. My hotel is clean and comfortable with a balcony overlooking the Main Street, which has very little traffic (this is a Tiny island!). I’ve booked a 4:30 AM pickup to see the sunrise at Tikal, followed by an 8 PM overnight bus to Guatemala City. Woo woo, I’m on my way in Guatemala!
Jan 6, 2018. Bus from Flores to Guatemala City
Bus to Tikal was 40 minutes late (I was just about to panic; then, after crossing to the mainland, the driver returned to Flores to pick up another couple. Nonetheless we arrived by at opening time ~6:30, and By not heading directly for the Gran Plaza, I saw no one for the first hour. It even after several hours at Tikal, it was never really crowded the way Chichén Itzá Or Tulum were. The stepped pyramids were impossibly steep, and one was the second highest in the Mayan world, but there were few architectural details that stood out. Perhaps best were the long walks between pyramids through really gorgeous jungle. Heard a howler monkey, saw a toucan and a little black dog-like creature from a distance.
Sign along one of the paths: “Howler monkeys like to defecate on the heads of the people below to show their presence and scream loudly.”
Back on the island, I spent time with Victor and Anna, from Poland. She’s quite the traveler- over 100 countries. He’s her boyfriend for four months now.
Briefly watched and filmed a procession of giant puppets and young men and women in crazy costumes, singing their hearts out to the accompaniment of a motley brass band. This marked the start of a week-long fiesta I am told.
I got on the 8 PM night bus, a really shabby 2nd class affair, no extras, and packed: so much so that the child in her dad’s arms next to me ended up sleeping across my lap. Victor and Anna were on the 9 PM bus, which was luxurious, and arrived in Guatemala City the same mine did, around 4:30 AM, in a really grubby terminal.
Tikal, Guatemala
Flores, Guatemala
Jan 7, 2018. Casa Azul, Quetzaltenango, Guatemala
We three got on the 6 AM bus to Quetzaltenango - and the bus being again very crowded, and me now an expert on busing with infants, I volunteered my lap to a little girl who was standing crushed in the aisle with her parents. She wouldn’t look at me, and held one of her dad’s thumbs in each hand for support, but I earned some brownie points from the parents and other passengers.
My Polish friends got off at Lake Atitlan, we promised to try to meet up again, and I continued to Quetzaltenango: about 4 hours total.
Had my first meal at Doña Cristy, two floors down in a subterranean hall: etol de elote m, a hot maize beverage, and two chuchitos, small tamales with chopped beats and grated cheese.
I’m about to take a city tour on an open-air bus, described as “complete with knowledgeable commentary in Spanish and cheesy sound effects.” Here we go! ... It was a riot. Two nice ladies across from me pointed out the sights, and I worked on my Spanish. Now hanging out in the Parque Centro América. Couples, kids, old and young, tourist stuff to buy, but very few tourists, mainly locals strolling and gabbing. Had a mango on a stick, cleverly sliced. Tempted by an orange juice, or a flavored shaved ice. Kid sitting next to me is beating the pants off a toy drum. A woman with a pug on a leash let a seated couple pet her dog, who went totally bananas over the couple - world’s friendliest dog. Now and then a loud firecracker goes off. And the weather is no longer hot and humid! I think I’m going to like this city.
Sitting here writing my notes, a guy dropped by and tried to talk me into a visit to the hot springs nearby. Also very interested in what sort of underpants I preferred. My first gay Guatemalan contact!
A beer at Salón Tecún, where I registered with Celas Maya.
Dinner at Sabe Delis with a nice Swedish guy I met at the Black Cat Hostel, which was empty except for the two of us while we had a beer there. I had great pasta, he a great pizza.
Just before dinner I got a call from Celas Maya: they are all set for me tomorrow morning at 8. Woo woo!