Dec 31, 2017 . Hotel Ucum, Chetumal, Quintana Roo
Another lazy day, broken only by good seafood at Marisquería Mi Viejo and meat tacos at Las Arracheras de Don José. Caren would like me to join her at Grenada around Jan 27. Doable, but that leaves less than two weeks for Spanish lessons in Guatemala. Worth it?
Jan 1, 2018. Blue Kay Eco-Resort, Mahahual, Quintana Roo
Bus at 6:30 AM, ~2 1/2 hours. This will be my first hostel this trip. A 1 tank scuba dive (not as colorful as the dives at Isla Mujeres, but saw an eel and a lion fish, and threaded through some nice canyons. I was the only diver, which was nice. Great grilled fish dinner at Nohoch Kay. Only one other person in multi-bed hostel, with no place to hang clothes, no towels, no soap, no shampoo, no nothing. You get what you paid for. Canceled my reservation at Xcalak: now motivates to get to Guatemala ASAP.
Jan 2, 2018. Angelo’s House, Airbnb, Mahahual, Quintana Roo
Another cruise boat docked next door: 3,000 guests, many of whom head for the malecon. Two more dives, this time with 7 others. Saw a turtle and lots of fan corals. I assume Belize diving is much better. Anyway, at least I’ve seen the 2nd largest reef in the world.
Interesting sight on the malecon: water-filled containers with tiny fish that nibble your feet and legs. Not sure what the health benefits are.
Angelo picked me up on my walk to his house in the afternoon. Lovely home, lovely room, everything clean and comfortable. Showered, took another lesson (#45) of Coffee Break Spanish, read more of my wonderful Hamilton biography, and of course the digital NY Times (what would I do without it?), tried out WhatsApp with the family, then a great dinner of chili poblano queso at Angelo’s restaurant. Free cappuccino, too. And practically no tourists (he lives outside of the tourist section). My last stop in Mexico is turning out to be one of the best.
Jan 3, 2018. Angelo’s House, Airbnb , Mahahual, Quintana Roo
We are talking LAZY day. Slept until 8, Spanish lesson and 7 minute workout, then to Angelo’s restaurant for croissant, two cappuccinos, bacon, eggs, potatoes, and a chaya to wash it all down. Then back to the house and my bedroom. No interest in hitting the malecon. Catching up on correspondence, starting The Three Body Problem by Cixin Liu, read more of my biography of Hamilton, downloaded one of John Quincy Adams. Looking forward to another meal tonight at Angelo’s (free cappuccino, 15% off on meals, Italians coming and going - how can you lose?)
Jan 4, 2018. Hotel Ucum, Chetumal, Quintana Roo
“Gringo breakfast” at Angelo’s restaurant (cappuccino, croissant, fried eggs, bacon, potatoes), then a last walk down the malecón for a collectivo to my old favorite hotel. Lazy afternoon, punctuated with a last meal at Marisquería Mi Viejo: pasta with camerón. Sent out lots of New Years emails, and had a long talk with Caren. She was pretty shaken up by an altercation with her German crew, when he became aggressive after she confronted him with his drinking (he had been spotted with a rum & coke at 9 in the morning). I recommended she wait awhile until both parties had quieted down before discussing it with him; and, in the long term, start looking for another crew.
I booked my flights to Grenada, arriving The morning of Jan 26. A pretty good deal, but I’m routed via Toronto (!)