Feb 19, 2019. Coral View Beach Resort, Utila, Honduras ($30)
Sitting on the veranda of this the best hotel I’ve yet stayed in, with a fine cup of coffee, accompanied by the two big black friendly hotel dogs, next to a pool with little foot-nibbling fish, and surrounded by tropical forest and the sounds of running water in the streams under and around the veranda, I was cheered by this email from Irv:
Someone asked "Why do some British people not like Donald Trump?"
Nate White, an articulate and witty writer from England, wrote this magnificent response.
"A few things spring to mind.
Trump lacks certain qualities which the British traditionally esteem.
For instance, he has no class, no charm, no coolness, no credibility, no compassion, no wit, no warmth, no wisdom, no subtlety, no sensitivity, no self-awareness, no humility, no honour and no grace -
all qualities, funnily enough, with which his predecessor Mr. Obama was generously blessed.
So for us, the stark contrast does rather throw Trump’s limitations into embarrassingly sharp relief.
Plus, we like a laugh. And while Trump may be laughable, he has never once said anything wry, witty or even faintly amusing - not once, ever.
I don’t say that rhetorically, I mean it quite literally: not once, not ever. And that fact is particularly disturbing to the British sensibility - for us, to lack humour is almost inhuman.
But with Trump, it’s a fact. He doesn’t even seem to understand what a joke is - his idea of a joke is a crass comment, an illiterate insult, a casual act of cruelty.
Trump is a troll. And like all trolls, he is never funny and he never laughs; he only crows or jeers.
And scarily, he doesn’t just talk in crude, witless insults - he actually thinks in them. His mind is a simple bot-like algorithm of petty prejudices and knee-jerk nastiness.
There is never any under-layer of irony, complexity, nuance or depth. It’s all surface.
Some Americans might see this as refreshingly upfront.
Well, we don’t. We see it as having no inner world, no soul.
And in Britain we traditionally side with David, not Goliath. All our heroes are plucky underdogs: Robin Hood, Dick Whittington, Oliver Twist.
Trump is neither plucky, nor an underdog. He is the exact opposite of that.
He’s not even a spoiled rich-boy, or a greedy fat-cat.
He’s more a fat white slug. A Jabba the Hutt of privilege.
And worse, he is that most unforgivable of all things to the British: a bully.
That is, except when he is among bullies; then he suddenly transforms into a sniveling sidekick instead.
There are unspoken rules to this stuff - the Queensberry rules of basic decency - and he breaks them all. He punches downwards - which a gentleman should, would,
could never do - and every blow he aims is below the belt. He particularly likes to kick the vulnerable or voiceless - and he kicks them when they are down.
So the fact that a significant minority - perhaps a third - of Americans look at what he does, listen to what he says,
and then think 'Yeah, he seems like my kind of guy’ is a matter of some confusion and no little distress to British people, given that:
* Americans are supposed to be nicer than us, and mostly are.
* You don't need a particularly keen eye for detail to spot a few flaws in the man.
This last point is what especially confuses and dismays British people, and many other people too; his faults seem pretty bloody hard to miss.
After all, it’s impossible to read a single tweet, or hear him speak a sentence or two, without staring deep into the abyss. He turns being artless into an art form;
he is a Picasso of pettiness; a Shakespeare of shit. His faults are fractal: even his flaws have flaws, and so on ad infinitum.
God knows there have always been stupid people in the world, and plenty of nasty people too. But rarely has stupidity been so nasty, or nastiness so stupid.
He makes Nixon look trustworthy and George W look smart.
In fact, if Frankenstein decided to make a monster assembled entirely from human flaws - he would make a Trump.
And a remorseful Doctor Frankenstein would clutch out big clumpfuls of hair and scream in anguish:
'My God… what… have… I… created?
If being a twat was a TV show, Trump would be the boxed set."
Checked out Rubi’s Inn - full, but available starting in two days. Will go for it probably (closer to the dive shops & restaurants).
Then walked 2.5 km to this place, only to find it shuttered and locked. Luckily found a jogger who got me in. Nice old place - reminds me of a scene with a boy wandering around a big hotel in an Ingmar Bergman film. Air con, snorkeling across the street, breakfast & snorkel included. My kind of place.
Feb 20, 2019. Coral View Beach Resort, Utila, Honduras ($30)
Talked them down to $30 a night for two nights - was originally double that. Place is at the end of the coast road, huge, old-fashioned, almost empty. Nice breakfast, good coffee (as usual). Called Caren: please move some money into our accounts! She’s conflicted between Cuba, the San Blas Islands, and Cartagena. But boat is in great shape (new inverter in place), and crew arriving in a few days.
Cuba land and sea: Facebook group
Ok, now for some reservations:
Managua > Mexico City: Mar 6
Nights at Ezzsleep: Mar 6, 7
Mexico City > Puerto Vallarta: Mar 8
(Screwed up on MEX - PVR flight by a day. Spend in Mexico City?
Snorkeled a bit offshore: not too bad - predominantly brown, with blue fan corals and very few fish. Nice and warm. I was only in for about a half hour.
Walked to Rubi’s to assure I have a room starting tomorrow night, then tuk-tuk to highly recommended RJ’s for a delicious meal of wahoo and extras. Tuk-tuk back and that was the day.
Feb 21, 2019. Rubi’s, Utila, Honduras ($20)
Rio Coco Cafe (best coffee)
Mario’s
Talked Captain Morgan’s Dive Shop to let me dive tomorrow without my dive card: Yesss!
Another fab strawberry liquado with milk: my third so far.
Great dinner at Mango Cafe: coconut shrimp and wine poached snapper fillet. Woo woo!
Room at Rubi’s is fine, easy water access, close to restaurants.
Warm weather - prefer taking yuk-tuks (very cheap) over walking. Took one to the Iguana Center for a look at the species that only exists on this island.
Read on some notices that Utila is considered the island that Robinson Crusoe spent time on. I may end up staying a few more days on this island...
Feb 22, 2019. Rubi’s, Utila, Honduras ($20)
Two nice dives this morning (back by 10!). The dive masters very professional and attentive. Lovely auburn fans and corals, occasional brightly colored fish (mostly blue), and one really big crab. Captain Morgan’s Dive Shop. The other divers - about 5 - were all experienced.
Another strawberry smoothie, then a pineapple smoothie and a hot dog (!) at the place next door - pretty good too. Lazed around all afternoon - kind of hot with no A/C - reading The Power of the Dog. Excellent fact/fiction of the drug trade over the years in Colombia, Central America, Mexico, and the States.
Dinner at Mango Tango: very good, very expensive.
1 US $ = 33 Nicaraguan Córdobas
= 25 Honduran Lempira
1 Honduran Lempira = 1.33 Córdobas
Feb 23, 2019. Dos Molinos B&B, San Pedro Sula, Honduras ($30)
45 minute ferry ride at 7 AM to La Ceiba, , taxi to bus terminal, 3 h bus ride to San Pedro Sula’s giant Terminal Gran Central Metropolitana, taxi to hotel. All set for tomorrow’s ~10 h Tica Bus ride to León. Hotel is four blocks from big shopping arcade - dinner no problemo.
Getting hot in these parts: high 90’s in San Pedro, not much cooler elsewhere.
San Pedro Sula:
Leon: Tica Bus, 4