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04/22/15. Tel Dishon to Meron picnic area.
Big day - covered book's day 5 and half of day 6. Got going early, but friendly dog I met the previous evening decided to accompany me, and I was too stupid to put him back inside the kibbutz's security fence until an hour of walking. So I reversed course, returned him to Tel Dashon, and put rocks under the gate so he couldn't squirm through and accompany me. Boy was he upset.
About noon a big boar and his sweetie passed in front of me on the trail - I believe the first time I have ever seen boars in the wild. Five minutes later, another pair, grazing beside the trail. Photos of course.
Most of the rest of the day spent on a gradual climb of about 2500 ft to the top of Mt. Meron, the highest point on the entire trail. More interesting was the military installation on top - lots of aerials, dish antenna, domes.
Descended as far as the Meron picnic area, passing Isaiah's tomb, "Elijah's chair" (a big rock), and the tomb of the Jewish scholar Shammai (50 BCE - 30 CE). Most eminent opponent of Hillel, although Hillel wins the popularity contest these days. Pitched tent, ate, slept. Saw one or two hikers the entire day. At least it didn't rain...
"Elijah's chair"
04/23/15. Meron picnic area to kibbutz Ginosaur (near Migdal).
3 book days in 2 actual days. I am honkin'. Spent most of the clambering down Nahal Amud, a very long and difficult clamber indeed. Signs said don't do it if it rains. It rained, and I did it (only fell once). Saw another wild boar. At times the canyon reminded me of Negev canyons, minus the vegetation.
Met Neveh Allon, who brewed me some good Israeli style coffee (which made up in part measure for the Nescafe Debacle: my jar opened up in the food bag, and corrupted everything in the bag). Nahal turned me on to Saar, (054-361-1029), in kibbutz Ginosaur. I plan to sleep in his backyard tonight.
Forecast is for clear skies the next few days. If I can figure out how to wash my clothes and myself soon, I will be in heaven.
04/24/15. Gynosaur to Tiberias.
Rained all night, but I was snug and dry in Saar's backyard, thanks to a dome-like cover plus mattress he set up for me. Checked out the Ancient Boat at the very nice and modern Gynosaur Museum. Looking at the guidebook, and feeling really grubby, I decided to skip the day's boring hike and instead hitched to Tiberias, checked into a hotel (150 sh), and washed my clothes (50 sh). Much better! Walked a bit around town, and had a great fish meal on the promenade. Watched TV in my own little room. Learned that Dana had gained full employee status at his company. Wonderful news.
Pidgin
English
Ancient Boat
The Sea of Galilee
Baptismal Site
04/25/15. Tiberias.
Rented a bike and rode south along the west coast of the Sea of Galilee, not very far, stopping at minor interest spots along the way. Highlight: the olive tree Glenn Beck planted at the Yardenit baptismal site. Stopped on the way back at the Tiberias Hot Springs for a nice long soak.
(I never did figure this one out...)
Wall mural, Tiberias
04/26/15. Tiberias.
A lot of time on buses and hitchhiking. Tsfat first, with the artists' quarters swarming with birthright kids; best was a lunch of 10 cheeses at a dairy. Next Korazim (synagogue with basalt carvings); and finally Capernaum, where Jesus spent a lot time during his Galilean ministry. Tried walking to Tabgha, but two men in a car stopped and insisted on picking me up and giving me a bottle of water (too dangerous to be walking in this hot weather...). Indeed, it really was hot, high 90's, and me below sea level. Forecast for heat wave to continue two more days.
My 10 cheese lunch
Capernaum
Korazim
04/27/15. Tiberias to Nazareth.
Decided to skip the walking until it cools off. Bus to Nazareth. But driver had a minor accident while backing bus in station, delaying departure by 1 1/2 hours. Found "Simsim" (Sesame) hostel in old city, run by Sami: really nice, clean, 70 sh dorm. Then took in the multi-media presentation of highlights of the biblical era at the Mary of Nazareth International Centre. Very well done. Visited the strange looking Basilica of the Annunciation, took photos of many of the mosaic panels donated by Christian communities around the world, depicting Mary and the infant Jesus.
04/28/15. Nazareth.
Great breakfast at hostel for 25 sh - will definitely do this every morning: olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, pita brea, butter, jam, coffee, cereal, yoghurt, soft goat cheese in olive oil (yum!), another kind of bread, heated with seeds and spices on it.
Started reading a book on the Palestinian viewpoint of Israel that I found at the hostel. An eye opener. I'm becoming less enchanted with the official version of the creation of Israel, especially its treatment of the Arab inhabitants: over 500 villages destroyed, 750,000 Palestinians forced to leave.
Walked around a bit seeing a few churches commemorating events in the life of Jesus. But mostly modern structures built over earlier edifices. More interesting is the fact that the Souk is almost completely closed down. One person I asked said it was a "strike", another made gestures of throwing a bomb.
Sitting now at Abu Ashraf's, here to try out his famous katayef (pancakes with goat cheese and cinnamon walnuts, doused with geranium syrup). Well, he didn't provide the katayef, just the usual hummus etc., but at least I learned why the souk was closed: it was a protest against the government taking Arab lands. Spent rest of (hot) day reading "Married to a Bedouin" (she lived in a cave with the guy in Petra).
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