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04/29/15. Nazareth to Beit She'an and back.
Lots of buses and walking and hitching in very hot weather to visit Beit She'an, but worth it. Huge ruin, something like I remember Ephesus to be, but without the crowds (I was almost the only one there).
It is one of Isreal's most impressive archaelogical sites. It has a history dating back over 6,000 years, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the region.
Cardo (Main Street), once lined with Roman shops
7000 seat amphitheater, still used for performances today.
Intricate mosaics that decorated the Roman bathhouses
04/30/15. Nazareth to Haifa.
More buses and hitchhiking, first to Cana (where Jesus turned water into wine for a wedding), and back; then to Tzopori (very fine mostly Roman town, lots of excellent mosaics, including the "Mona Lisa of the Galilee"). Much cooler weather. Decided I'd done enough hiking on the INT (the remaining stretch - Zippori to Jerusalem - is uninteresting and mostly along roads) and to head to Haifa by bus. Got to the main Nazareth - Haifa road, but couldn't cross it to hitch or grab a bus back to Nazareth (too much traffic), so got lucky and found a bus to Haifa. Checked into the hostel recommended by Sami (the owner at Simsim's in Nazareth), 100 sh for the dorm, right on Ben Gurion street next to a whole row of expensive restaurants. The street ends at the bottom of the Baha'i Gardens, all lit at night, pretty amazing. Stayed up late nursing a lemonade with mint while listening to Arab singers and musicians at a restaurant across the street.
"The Mona Lisa of the Galilee"
Baha'i Gardens
2015-04-30 Nazareth to Haifa 086.movLocal restaurant music
05/01/15. Haifa.
Did practically nothing except a lot of reading, and some walking around the city. Nice weather, even a bit cool in the evening. Good discussion with the neighbor and good friend if the hostel owner (both Palestinians) about the terrible things the Israelis did in 1948 and on. Must read up; they recommended a book but I have forgotten the title.
05/02/15. Haifa. (shabbat).
More hanging out. I have become really lazy! Not much going on anyway.
05/03/15. Haifa.
Walked the Baha'i Gardens. Did the zoo nearby (surprisingly good: two white Bengal tigers, several Syrian brown bears, 3 kinds of desert foxes, a striped hyena, leopard, wolves, jackals, ibexes, all from Israel. Wasted 30 shekels on a terrible Japanese museum. But the great weather continues. Another guy in the dorm tonight - I've had it to myself so far.
Baha'i Gardens
Desert fox
Ibex
Syrian brown bear
05/04/15. Akko.
Train with dorm buddy (Dutch, 25, very talkative). Great old walled city on the coast. Strolled around, bought with hanging from local artist, drank fresh oj, ate dried figs, usual hummus lunch in Arab quarter (15 sh), even took a 20 sh boat ride to view city walls from the sea. Back by 5, no dinner (felt uneasy going to an expensive restaurant as I did last night: Malay rice noodles with shrimp, 100 sh - I am such a cheapskate!)
05/05/15. Caesarea.
Complicated train ride (had to change twice), only to be deposited 8 km from the site. The taxi I then had to take cost 40 sh. But a great site, beautiful open ruins, right on the blue Mediterranean. Archaeologists found the name "Pontius Pilate" on an inscription, the only physical evidence of his existence.
Walking back to the bus stop (only about 2 km), turned off to view a wonderful bird mosaic and a long aqueduct by the sea. Got a ride from the bus stop with two Israeli teachers. That evening, watched premier league teams Juventus and Real Madrid, along with about 15 Arab guys.
Only known inscription of "Pontius Pilate"
2015-05-01 - 2015-05-07 Haifa 084.mov
Haifa wall art
05/06/15. Haifa.
Just hanging at the hostel. Haircut in the morning in the Arab quarter (50 sh), now finishing Stephen King's "11.22.63". More premier league football tonight! Barcelona v Bayern Munich: Messi was wonderful (2 goals).
05/07/15. Haifa to USA
Lazed around in the morning, then drove with Saher to University. He let me off on a cool street in Haifa for my last felafel sandwich and sheesha. Then picked up backpack at hostel, took train to airport. On the plane, I exchanged seat with a woman so that an Orthodox jew didn't have to sit next to her. Ah, Israel!
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