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Dec 21, 2017. Mayapan.
Much nicer than my guide books described. Compact area, a couple of great pyramids, some extant sculptures, even some colored stucco paintings. And you could climb wherever you liked.
Drove next (on a terrible one-lane “road” with two closed gates I had to pass through, and warned off by some kids who told me it was not a way to go, plus it was getting dark) to Chunkianan, a real one-horse town, and no hotels or restaurants. Two old ladies sitting in a doorway offered to put me up (I think for 30 pesos?), and told me there were restaurants further down the road. And indeed, in the adjacent town of Homún a guy directed me to this hotel, really nice and clean, great WiFi, cable TV (with the usual Vin Diesel offering - he sure is big over here), and one-third the price of the cheapest hotels listed in Booking.com. Big dinner of panucho, a Yucatán specialty: fried tortillas topped with retried beans, onion, and lots of tomato. Arranged with him (“Fausto”) to pick me up tomorrow morning at ten in his motorbike for a visit to four Cenotes.
Decided to skip the Grutas de Lol-Tun, and couldn’t find the chocolate place, so instead headed straight for Maní, for some sopa de lima and relleno negro at El Príncipe Tutul-Xiu (not very good, despite its popularity). Fruits on menu: nance, camote, ciricote, ciruela. I should have tried one of each.
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