2019: Guatemala

Jan 11, 2019.  Hotel Pixcayá, San Juan Comalapa (6700 ft), Guatemala 

• Nine AM airport shuttle (bus is cheaper, but you still need a taxi across town from the bus terminal to the airport.)  Unfortunately, things didn’t work out so well: about 5 miles from the airport, and after inching along in heavy traffic almost the entire way, we collided with a car.  Minor damage to both vehicles; I picked up a cut near my right elbow that bled on my nice clean jeans.  So had to take a taxi, split with two other shuttlers, the rest of the way.  But got my tiny standard shift Chevy for about $20 / day, including Insurance.  Stuck in traffic the first hour or so just trying to get out of the capital - man there are a lot of cars on the road - then suddenly I’m on an unimproved windy dirt track, up and down steep valleys and hillsides, to arrive at Comalapa around 3 PM.  One bit of good news: this town has a Friday market (one of the very few), and it was still open.

• Bought a huge bag of peanuts for Q10, then visited a few art galleries, including the home of Andrés Curruchich, who brought fame to this town with his simple paintings of village life.  Then on to the very long mural (at 184m the country’s longest) depicting the history of the region since early times, including the Spanish period, the Civil War, and the 1976 earthquake that killed 3,500 inhabitants.  Local Kaqchiquel women in outfits much like those in Xela.  

• Dinner at El Rinconcito Chaplin (“The Small Guatemalan Corner”): beef tomato and onion brochettes, French fries, salad, ands Cuban Libre to wash it down.  In bed by eight.  Only tourist in hotel - and town, for that matter.  I like this place.

• Plan (*: hotel): Comalapa* > Jilotepeque > Joyabaj > Zacualpa > Santa Cruz del Quiche* > K’umarkaa - Sacapulas* > Uspantan*WiFi <> Laj Chimel > Nebaj*hiking guide, WiFi at Popi’s* & El Descanso <> Acul* Haciendas <> Cocop > Xemamatzé > Rio Azul > Nebej > Cotzal* > Chajul* House murals

• Back road to Guatemala City: Salama > San Geronimo (ex-Sugar mill / museum) > Rabinal* > Cubulco* > Mixto Viejo (turnoff) > Guatemala City.